I intend to use this blog to say a few things about travelling, surfing and the life that surrounds these obsessions. I was obsessed enough to write a book about travelling and surfing, named Island Explorer. I feel better now, but I haven’t been cured.
Island Explorer is the description of a period in my life that was full of adventure and anticipation. In the book I have tried to describe the excitement that I felt at the time. There were so many things to do in my life and so many places to visit. Travel has always appealed very strongly to me and now that I don’t get the chance to travel as much as before, writing about it is a pleasant substitute and an escape for me. Reading about travel and specifically adventurous travel in wild places is another way of experiencing the thrill of being on the road. There are so many good travel books and in the future I’ll be posting lists of books that I have enjoyed reading.
The other element that I wrote about in Island Explorer is surfing. This is something that I still manage to do on a regular basis. There is nothing else like it; surfing is my fitness training, my meditation, my motivational program and my psychotherapy. It’s the funnest thing I know of and it never gets old. Being out there in the water gives me space and allows me to think. That is why I often prefer mediocre, but uncrowded surf to the busy spots. I don’t see surfing as just a sport.
But there is more to this world than just chasing waves. There are so many things peripheral to surfing that are worth noticing and examining. Nature surrounds us when we surf and there is so much to discover about it. There is also the social aspect of surfing and the whole world that the media and the surf retail industry have created. These are things that are worth talking about. Maybe that is where this blog will head, we’ll have to see…